The chopping, stirring, seasoned art,

A purpose placed in every part.

With mindful hand and spirit pure,

A gift of love that will endure.

This food, with sacred intent, is made—

The work of Gods on Earth displayed.

After several sleepless nights thanks to the Fires of France, Indo-American saber-rattling and Asian political storms and our very own flash floods -- Bopp & Tone, Wynyard, Sydney, Australia came as a welcome respite, or…so I thought. What else? Little did I know that in the Grand Scheme, this unpretentious oasis was to be life’s soothing balm on a beaten brow bent to solve the woes of countless. I’ll explain.

Saturday Jazz was in full lilt as lovely Lucie led us to a Terrace table. Elegant Elise produced the menus and water with all the flair of a stage magician exuding a welcoming warmth while walking us through the possibilities. With a disarming mix of friendliness and professionalism she helps us pick the ‘Grand’, from the Banquet menu and offers the Sourdough bread with olive oil before she leaves us to soak in the vibe.

My colleagues take in the views, enjoying the music. I struggle to stay in the present, the mind refusing to stop caring about the helpless thousands suffering caught between the “public will” and the “political wont”. Somewhere in this mental mist, a faint voice whispers comfort, as though my whole being is consoled. Is this restaurant life’s way of giving a little back to me? I belabor the point because true hospitality is so much more than scintillating food and arty beverage, or elegant décor.

It is how people make you feel. Are you a customer, to be served and forgotten? Or are you a fellow-soul deserving of heartfelt love? Just then, Lucie arrives to ensure all is well and our brief chat begins. We learn a little of each other’s lives, shared passion for pets. My emotional burdens grow lighter. I laugh. Elise arrives with the first of our treats.

Art on a Plate

Tuna Tartare opens the show: silky, fresh cubes, lively with chilli miso, a whisper of fried garlic, balanced by crisp seaweed salsa and clever bursts of betel leaf and sorrel. It is a masterclass in texture and subtle heat.

The Stuffed Zucchini Flowers are delicate, memorable -- creamy ricotta filling, fragrance of preserved lemon, a golden crisp that yields exactly when you bite in. Art on a plate, the dish is unbeatable.

Roasted cauliflower with harissa, romesco, chilly oil is earthy, bright, smoky --  the kind of side that could steal the spotlight.

Each mouthful is a bouquet of flavours, each plate, visual art. The symphony of these appetisers now fill the mind leaving not much room for work-related thoughts. Lucie and Elise’s care compliment the late, but welcome Sydney sun as streaks of gold stream on to our table like blessings.

Arriving with more wonders is Liza, bringing to our table the music of her lovely French accent. A lively chat ensues and I hope aloud that her friends and family are safe from problems in polarised Paris, as the news suggests. See, this is an occupation hazard with me. Leading the world’s oldest and largest data-driven media company is a crown of thorns. Regal, but painful. C’est la vie!

Liza brandishes the Grilled King Prawns that arrive with that grill-kissed exterior, fermented chilli working beautifully with the parsley and fresh lemon; shell-char aromas that recall wood embers.

Just the right texture, it is a mouth-melting marvel beyond compare, until we fall upon the Roasted Spatchcock with hummus, salted fennel, Turkish chilli, lime: juicy, tender. The spice and acidity of the Turkish chilli and lime keep the richness from tipping into heaviness. A masterpiece. The closest I’ve come to a dish as delicious as this was in Mauritius when I was a guest at a government banquet way back in the early 90’s.

Then the rib eye -- a rich piece of succulent meat, wood grilled, beautifully charred on the outside, sealing juices within; flavour fully intact! It occupies your taste buds, but doesn’t dominate. Perfect proportions by flavour and size.

Sides and salad do their job: roast cracked potatoes in herb butter are comforting, mixed leaf salad with champagne vinaigrette brings a necessary brightness, enough acid and lift to balance the richness of meat.

You Raise Me Up

What impressed above all was originality. These are familiar Mediterranean/Australian share-style flavours, but few execute them with this level of consistency, balance, and inventiveness. The smoky grill, the fermented elements, the herbaceous accents -- none feel gimmicky.

The flavours form a bouquet; each dish is a stem, essential in its own way yet contributing to a collective harmony. The kitchen here clearly respects ingredients, lets them speak, then adds just enough artistry to elevate.

By now, the sounds of strife are replaced by the foot-tapping jazz, the amazed palate is singing with satisfaction, the ambiance is filled with a strange affection and for me – time stops. The whisper: “Rest & recover, o peaceful warrior, tomorrow will bring new promise.”

To finish we have the chef’s dessert. I’ll let the picture speak for me. Words would fail me (as they would anyone) anyway. So, when you visit, show this review with its pictures and await the surprise.

I request to meet the chef through whose hands, we received God’s gifts. We meet with sous chef Tarak Nayyar, a personable young professional for whom I pray, life offers a bright future. As we prepare to leave, I give silent thanks to Lucie, Liza, Elise, Tarak and to those behind the scenes for it is their combined love that lifted me (albeit briefly) beyond work and worry, put a smile where it ought to be.

Yet, there is unfinished business here.

This is no ordinary restaurant. It seems more than it is.

From where does this spirit of service that permeates every facet of this enterprise, spring from? What is the invisible force that crafts this creativity? To what power do we owe this gratitude? It is worth discovering, n’est ce pas, as Liza would say.

For now, I’ll thank the ‘One who sees and knows all’ for an afternoon spent in what felt like a divine embrace. Thank you Bopp & Tone for an unforgettable experience.